Tucked away in the green hills of the Latium Maremma, just a stone's throw from the hustle and bustle of Rome, the village of Tolfa appears like a place suspended in time. Through ancient stones and cobblestone alleys, here the atmosphere smells of burnt wood and freshly baked bread, and every corner tells a story. For those looking for a trip to the roots, away from conventional tourist circuits, Tolfa is a heart-warming discovery. As soon as one enters Via del Borgo, the beating heart of the town, the sound of hammers beating on leather guides one's steps toward historic craft workshops. Marco's Tannery, a workshop that has been in existence since 1923, is still a temple of leatherworking, where the famous Tolfetan saddlebags - the sturdy bags of the butteri, hand-sewn with the same technique used two centuries ago - are created. A little further along, on Via delle Cartiere, Lucia's “Antica Pelle” workshop displays belts, bags and saddles made from local hides, while the smell of tannin fills the air like an ancient call. And when appetite strikes, just follow the scent of burning wood to Piazza della Rocca, where Trattoria da Nelle serves stracciatella alla tolfetana - a thick broth with eggs, cheese and a sprinkling of pepper that is a must-try ritual. For sweets, however, the Pasticceria “La Sprozzafuoco” (on Via del Corso) churns out its namesake almond cookies every morning, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, following a recipe jealously guarded by the nuns of the convent of St. Augustine. The area around Tolfa is shrouded in an aura of magic. Those who venture along the Sentiero delle Streghe, an ancient trail that starts from Via del Fontanile, can still imagine the shadows of the canepini, the miners who worked in the alum quarries. It is said that on windy nights, their lost songs can be heard in the ruins of the Alum Mine. Another legend has it that in the woods of Mount Grappa, especially near the Spring of St. Michael, a mysterious female figure appears: according to folk tales, it may be a good witch who helped lost travelers by showing them the way with bundles of bright herbs. Even today, some people leave small gifts - a red ribbon, a coin - near the spring as a sign of gratitude. Tolfa is not just to look at, but to experience. Every Sunday morning, Piazza Matteotti comes alive with the farmer's market, where local producers sell sheep's milk cheeses, honey from the Tolfa Mountains, and extra virgin olive oil that tastes of these hills. And if you're lucky enough to visit the village in September, you can't miss the Chestnut Festival, when the narrow streets around Via della Fonte are filled with stalls, folk music and steaming roasted chestnuts. For those seeking a connection to their roots, or simply wanting to savor a genuine Italy, Tolfa is a place that welcomes like an ancient embrace. Here, traditions are not a museum, but a daily practice - and every stone, every scent, every story is just waiting to be discovered.